Friday, April 3, 2009

MUSCAT, OMAN

MUSCAT, OMAN
Muscat (Arabic for cliff) is another city that the discovery of oil in 1971 helped to expand and modernize. The present Sultan (Qaboos bin Said) who is well loved and respected, in 1970 peacefully deposed his father who was not very progressive, and was instrumental in improving conditions and uniting the people from the inland areas. Unlike Dubai, they have chosen to keep their expansion at a reasonable level and it was a pleasant change from Dubai's artificiality. There are several high rise hotels and office buildings, but the overall feel of Muscat was that of a sprawling desert town. There are very few stop signals, and traffic is controlled with roundabouts. It seemed we were constantly going around one! It is built in the middle of high rocky cliffs, with a ragged and jagged coastline, and many of the 2 and 3 story buildings look like they’ve been placed down like monopoly houses. Several of the old beige sandstone forts originally built by the Portuguese still stand guard at the entrance to the port, welcoming the fishing fleet home each evening and a few are even still used by the military. Some of them have been carved out of the rock and blend in with the landscape, and there are a few white sand beaches. This is a strategic port location in the Indian Ocean since vessels bound in and out of the Persian Gulf and Strait of Hormuz must pass by.

Although it rained off and on while we were there, we were able to visit the Grand Sultan Qaboos Mosque, the design of which was personally chosen and supervised by the Sultan himself. Women are generally not allowed inside -- they have their own mosque where they pray if they don’t stay home to pray, and we had to be covered with a head scarf, long sleeves to the wrists, and pants to the ankles. There is no furniture inside a mosque. This mosque’s floor is covered with a gigantic Persian carpet that was designed and woven specifically for it, and it took 600 women 4 years to complete. Because of its size, it had to be made in four sections and sewn together in place inside the mosque. There are several beautiful crystal chandeliers and the walls and ceiling are covered with beautiful inlaid designs of semi precious stones. Its capacity is 5,000 inside and 25,000 outside.

The Mutrah Souk in Old Muscat was flooded when we visited -- it rains so seldom in these desert locations that the drainage is very poor -- and one of the unique offerings was pieces of frankincense and small charcoal burners for it. This is a very hard resin from the native Boswellia tree and was very expensive in the time of Christ, thus one of the gifts the Three Wise Men brought. This souk was smaller and much more laid back than those in Dubai, but just as interesting to wander through the winding alleyways. We enjoyed seeing the Bait Al Zubair Museum which was a private collection of traditional Omani Heritage displays of weapons, clothing, jewelry, household items, books, paintings and maps. The Sultan’s Palace was very impressive, with its long, wide rust and beige marble sidewalks leading to its main gate. The road was paved with a matching rust-colored asphalt!



This is the land where the fabled Sinbad the Sailor lived, as well as Queen Scheherazade who saved her life by telling the Sultan a new story every night for 1,001 nights. A gentle place to say farewell to our travels in Asia, and prepare ourselves for the “Dark Continent” of Africa.

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