Wednesday, May 6, 2009

DEVIL'S ISLAND, FRENCH GUIANA








DEVIL’S ISLAND, French Guiana

We’ve crossed the equator for the fourth time on this World Cruise and have reached the group of three Salvation Islands (Iles de Salut) off the coast of French Guiana in South America -- Ile du Diable (Devil‘s Island), Ile Royale (where we land) and Ile St. Joseph. The area is collectively known as Devil’s Island. The notorious French penal colony was opened in 1852 and its inmates ran the gamut from political prisoners to thieves and murderers. The conditions were harsh, diseases ran rampant, escape was almost impossible due to the currents and sharks and most inmates died there. France stopped sending prisoners there in 1938 and it was closed forever in 1952.

What a tropical paradise these islands are today! This port was chosen as a place for us to relax before the final stress of packing …The vegetation is very lush with both deciduous and palm trees, and lots of coconuts lying on the ground. On our walk around Ile Royale we passed overgrown ruins of various prison buildings and the remains of the pillar that supported the cable used to send food and supplies to the almost inaccessible Devil’s Island only about fifty yards away. Some of the original guards’ quarters have been converted to a small hotel, restaurant and gift shop and there are only a handful of permanent residents. Private yachts often visit here but tourism is very limited.

We enjoyed seeing the wildlife -- lots of birds -- chickens, domesticated peacocks and two pet military macaws, large rodents called agouti, and iguanas. These were particularly interesting to watch as they sat in a swamp on the thick layer of water lily leaves, even lumbering across them without sinking! We even had a picnic at the top of a hill overlooking the waves as they crashed over the rugged rocks below.

The island was a delightful spot if you didn’t let the ghosts of its dark past intrude to spoil the natural beauty…

We were blessed to have had a smooth crossing across the Atlantic Ocean back into the Northern Hemisphere and fortunate with our challenging landings at the small remote islands of St. Helena, Ascension and Ile Royale. We’ve turned our clocks back for the last time and are now back on Florida time in preparation for the final week of our incredible trip.

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