PUNTA ARENAS, CHILE

Punta Arenas means 'sandy point' in Spanish, and is the southernmost city on the mainland of the South American continent -- Ushuaia is farther south, but is on the island of Tierra del Fuego. In the mid 19^th century it was a penal colony and disciplinary posting for military personnel. A mutiny in 1877 led to the destruction of much of the town and the death of many citizens. It is still a major military base, naval shipyard and employer.

Steamers rounding the Cape, or on their way to the California Gold Rush stopped here for supplies, and the town had a flourishing ship repair industry. The harbor was considered one of the most important in Chile before the Panama Canal opened in 1914. In the early 20^th century the region prospered because of the discovery of gold and the growing sheep industry. Fortunes were made from sheep farming and the sale of mutton. Chilean wool was often stored in ships to avoid taxes!

We visited Fuerte Bulnes about an hour's drive south of the city. Passing by the many old grounded sailing vessels along the sandy beaches, fields of grazing sheep, and a very modern cube building which was a mineral water plant, we arrived at the fort originally built in 1843 . Many of the buildings were constructed of peat and we had fun climbing up into the tiny jail. The views of the windswept landscape were beautiful. On the way back we saw hundreds of cormorants sitting on two abandoned piers.

After a 5-star lunch -- and our first Pisco Sour (delicious!) -- we visited the Palacio Braun-Menendez, originally the mansion of the businessman Sr. Braun-Menendez, which is now a regional history museum. It was a really interesting glimpse into a prosperous colonial merchant family's life. There was also a photographic exhibit documenting the ethnic and geographic development in the region. We had a brief stop at a small handicraft market in the main square before returning to the ship, tired but happy.

Observation:

Residents of the southern cities that we visited love their dogs! They all seem well cared for and friendly, but wander freely through the towns. In Punta Arenas they all seem to sleep (anywhere they want, in the parks, on the sidewalks and even in the streets) until 5 o'clock, when they wake up to chase the taxi drivers! This really amused most of us waiting for our shuttle bus.